Tuesday 6 October 2009

The boys are back in town

The dedicated menswear day at LFW signifies both what we men choose to wear being of increasing importance to an industry in tough economic times, but also a welcome change of pace and mood to the high-jinx, feeding-frenzy called womenswear.

Men’s clothing presents itself, even in a catwalk setting, in a calm and measured way. Suave Cary Grant to the women's gobby Lady Gaga. Without every being dull, of course. And true to the renegade spirit of London’s fashion weeks past – there was the eye-popping clash of the unwearable pressed up against the eccentric, nodding towards the slick and covetable.

Into the latter group was Royal College of Art alumna, Carolyn Massey’s collection, inspired in part by a camping trip to Dungeness, hence the drawstring detailed caghoules, so refined that they at times morphed into shirts. Her trousers were sharp and flat-fronted and her shorts, neatly tailored. The stand out piece, a multi-pocketed caghoul-inspired top summed up the luxury utilitarian spirit of the show.

The big guns, including Mr High Street himself, Philip Green, was a front row presence for the Topman sponsored MAN shows where Katie Eary’s disturbing cut-out collection had models painted with exposed sinews, blood vessels and bones. While Topman’s own collection, a refined take on youthful, sports-influenced menswear – cotton trousers and wide short-sleeved shirts, trod the commercial/edge line with easy confidence.

The evening’s selection of tailor-to-watch, Wintle, a Child of the Jago, Tim Soar and outrĂ© B-store climaxed what was a confident day of British men’s fashion. Noteworthy were Wintle’s pale, loose-cut tailoring with contrast ribboned edging and bStore’s preppy elegance of buttoned up, loose shirts and old-school satchels. We may not choose to wear all of what was on offer, but with this standard of product, we’ll certainly be spoilt for choice.

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