Tuesday 27 October 2009

The Gold Standard, Harrods' smart new menswear department

“The concept was actually very simple,” says Jason Broderick, general merchandise manager for menswear at Harrods, “we just wanted it to be the most luxurious menswear department in the world.” Broderick and Marigay McKee, Fashion and Beauty Director, are co-creators - with US architectural firm, Callison - of the slick gold, taupe and metallic ground floor. It’s a gilded backdrop for the sharpest menswear; a playground designed for Hedge Funders with an AmEx Centurion card and an hour to spare.

The £9 million menswear department curves around the south eastern corner of the world’s most famous department store bathing Bottega Veneta, Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Dunhill, Turnbull and Asser, Lanvin, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana and others in a golden light that seems to suggest that if you pull on that two button cashmere Bottega jacket (£1600) the world might just become a better place. Even by only a cuff length.

“Traditionally we had the scenario of 'the grey suits are over here sir' or 'the navy this way...' and so on,” says Broderick. “Whereas men today want to feel and live a retail experience by looking out for things by themselves. Men have become more confident shopping for their clothes over the last ten years in ways that traditionally only women did.” Hence the shop-within-shop idea giving each brand the space to create their own signature within the overall Harrods banner. At Louis Vuitton their emblem of luxurious travel is suggested with their monogrammed upended trunks (£21,500 each). While outsize black ginger jars like lacquered sentinels give the Ralph Lauren Purple Label its esoteric air.

Exclusives and one-offs are a Harrods signature (as if gulls’ eggs really could be available throughout the year if only you knew where to look). This brand value is embraced in the menswear department with one-of-a-kind items scattered throughout the collections. Just one Burberry trench coat, signed in the lining by its designer Christopher Bailey, was left on the rail during my recent visit. Though my guess is it’ll be long gone by the time you’re reading these words.

The-not-quite-finished basement houses Tom Ford’s only London ‘shop’ – a paean to masculine sartorial excess (I defy anyone to not find a home for his tan alligator, chunky zipped bowling bag, as long as they’ve got £15,000 handy). It plays its occult seductions opposite the personal shopping department and alongside other men’s brands such as Neil Barratt, Paul Smith and Rag and Bone. This space is itching to become the throbbing bass to the heady sartorial notes upstairs.

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